Terry created eight samples for the FW24 Double Sleeve Blouson. This sample reflects the experimentation and refinement that went into said piece. Originally designed with a chest patch pocket, the decision to tear it off left ghostly undyed marks on the body. Inside, the pocket lining combined cotton and cupro with a facing of rat grey silk noil—an intentional “hidden” detail meant to give the wearer a first tactile impression of Blackmerle’s favored tonal and textural combinations, though later simplified to full cupro for production practicality.

Korean designer Terry Shin founded Blackmerle in 2016 and has since maintained an iterative, textile-focused design process. With muted colors but rigorous textural variation, the pieces simultaneously transgress while remaining practical. Blackmerle's material range is unmatched, as they source and develop their fabrics from artisanal mills across Japan and the UK.

Terry has a close relationship with his fabric manufacturers, and he produced this particular custom-weave in Shizuoka, Japan. The jacket incorporates elaborate weft patterning and slub yarns for irregular texture. Finally, Terry over-dyed the piece in soot, to give it an un-even coloration.